Blank Garment Sourcing: What Buyers at Scale Need to Know

For large-volume decorated apparel buyers, the garment itself — the blank — is typically the largest single cost component in an order. At 100,000 units, the difference between a $3.00/unit blank and a $6.00/unit blank is $300,000. Getting the blank selection right is as important as getting the decoration right.

Here’s what sophisticated buyers at scale think about when selecting and sourcing blanks.

The Blank Brands Worth Knowing

The wholesale decorated apparel market is dominated by a handful of brands, each with different positioning:

Gildan — The volume standard. Deep inventory, wide style availability, low price point. The Gildan 5000 heavy tee is probably the most-printed garment in the US. Excellent for programs where cost is the priority and premium hand feel is not required.

Bella+Canvas — Premium positioning with fashion-forward cuts, soft ring-spun cotton and cotton/poly blends. Popular for retail-adjacent programs, urban lifestyle brands, and anywhere the “feel” of the garment matters. Meaningfully more expensive than Gildan.

Next Level — Similar positioning to Bella+Canvas, with a strong following in the screen print community for its print surface and soft hand. Good option for programs wanting a premium feel without the full retail price of some competitors.

Comfort Colors — Garment-dyed blanks with a lived-in, vintage aesthetic. Popular for collegiate programs, lifestyle brands, and anything with a casual, heritage feel. Not suitable for every brand aesthetic, but very popular where it fits.

Port Authority / Port & Company — Core workwear and professional apparel brands owned by SanMar (one of the dominant wholesale distributors). Reliable quality, broad style range, heavy penetration in uniform and corporate programs.

Hanes — Strong in basics and comfort-focused programs. The Hanes Beefy-T is a legendary blank for reasons of durability and cost. Less fashion-forward than Bella+Canvas but a solid workhorse for high-use applications.

Anvil / Allmade / Similar specialty brands — Specialty blanks for specific needs: recycled content, organic cotton, sustainability certifications, unusual cuts. Often higher cost; relevant for sustainability-focused brands.

What to Specify Beyond Brand and Style

Brand and style number is the starting point, not the complete specification. Large-volume buyers should also specify:

Fabric weight: Even within a brand, the same style is sometimes available in different fabric weights (measured in ounces per square yard — e.g., 5.3 oz vs. 6.0 oz). Heavier fabric is more durable; lighter is softer and drapes differently.

Fabric content: 100% cotton, 50/50 cotton-poly blend, tri-blend, 100% polyester — each produces different print results and different wear characteristics. Cotton takes screen printing most predictably. Performance fabrics (polyester-heavy) require specific inks and printing approaches.

Color: Specify Pantone-equivalent fabric colors where possible, not just color names. “Red” can vary significantly between manufacturers. If you’re matching a specific color, get a swatch before committing to a large order.

Size breakdown: Specify the size distribution (S/M/L/XL/2XL ratios) explicitly. For large programs, size availability can vary — some sizes or colors may be in shorter supply.

Availability Risk at Scale

One of the most underestimated risks in large-volume blank sourcing is availability. Popular blanks in popular colors sell through quickly at major wholesale distributors. A 100,000-unit order in a specific style and color may not be immediately available.

Signs of availability risk:

• Style is a current trend and in high demand
• Color is a fashion color (not a perennial basic)
• Total quantity exceeds what any single distributor holds in stock
• Timeline is tight (under 8 weeks from order to production completion)

Mitigation strategies:

• Confirm availability before locking a style into your design process
• Have a backup style approved in advance
• For programs where one style is non-negotiable, consider pre-purchasing blanks before artwork is finalized
• Work with a manufacturer who sources across multiple distributors

When to Let the Manufacturer Source vs. Sourcing Yourself

Some buyers supply their own blanks — they purchase separately and ship to the decorator. Others have the decorator source blanks as part of the decoration order. Both approaches can work; the right choice depends on your situation.

Source through the manufacturer (decorator) when:

• You don’t have established wholesale accounts
• Consolidated PO and invoice management matters
• You want a single point of accountability
• The manufacturer has preferred pricing or availability access

Source blanks independently when:

• You have established wholesale accounts with better pricing
• You need specific blanks the decorator doesn’t typically source
• You’re running a very large program and can leverage your own volume
• You have a 3PL or warehouse that can receive and consolidate

For most buyers at the 100,000–250,000 unit range, sourcing through the manufacturer simplifies the transaction without sacrificing meaningful cost savings.

Compliance and Certification Requirements

Retail programs, government contracts, and certain corporate programs require blanks that meet specific certifications:

• Oeko-Tex Standard 100: Tests for harmful substances. Required by many retail buyers.
• WRAP certification: Factory-level social compliance certification.
• GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard): For organic cotton claims.
• Made in USA: For programs requiring domestic origin. Significantly limits blank options and increases cost.
• Union-made: Specific to programs or buyers with union requirements.

Know your requirements before selecting a blank. Not every style from every brand carries every certification.

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Merch Factory Direct sources blanks across all major wholesale brands as part of our decoration programs for 100,000+ unit orders. Learn about our blanks sourcing service, or contact us to discuss your garment requirements.